Nov 10 2024 – Gorak Shep to Lobouche

Tonight I’m sleeping in a Himalayan Bond Villain Lair. It’s known informally along the trail as the “Italian Pyramid”, but it’s formal name is “Pyramid International Laboratory-Observatory”.

Its story is interesting. 20 something years ago the government of Italy wanted to build a climate monitoring station in Tibet. The Chinese government told them absolutely hell no, so the Nepal government offered them this site. Italy said okay and built the place. As governments do when it comes to studying the climate, Italy eventually lost interest. Didn’t bother to tell the local Sherpa caretaker he no longer had a job, just left him up here with the keys to a facility to was designed for a contingent of 10 scientists to have an extended stay. So, he started renting out the rooms. He also tries to keep much of the scientific equipment running and sends the data down to the university in Kathmandu. So everyone is a winner, he’s making money off people like me, the Italian government is spending nothing to maintain the place, and the scientific community still gets a lot of the data.

They didn’t have any available rooms in the base, so they offered me a room at the top of the pyramid. It has a lovely view, and has become my most favorite room I’ve stayed in so far this trip. Most lodge rooms up here have been very dark and very cold. Later in the afternoon they did free up some space in the base and asked if I wanted to move rooms, I said no.

We’ll see if it keeps its heat overnight, but it was pleasingly warm all afternoon – the glass creates a greenhouse effect.

Still have the Khumbu cough, and I also don’t have a very strong appetitie. I had to force myself to come downstairs for dinner. Not really hungry, but if I burn out my energy reserves at this altitude, even just heading down, it’s not gonna lead good places.

Eat my pasta, then back to bed with me.