Nov 11 2024 – Lobouche to Periche

Today was my only true downhill day, where it was literally all downhill. All days to come are going to be a bunch of uphill where I somehow end at a lower elevation because of Sherpa magic.

From the Italian Pyramid it’s basically backtracking to Thukla. Once there the trail splits – the trail back to Dengbouche is on an moraine that is above the valley floor, and the trail to Periche is on the valley floor by the river. Since I’ve been to Dengbouche I decided to go to Periche.

Passed something confusing on my way:

In a place where there are no roads within 100 miles, and all the river crossings have been by cable suspension bridges, I’m having trouble wrapping my brain around how this got here.

I definitely understand why there used to be an insurance scam to get a free helicopter flight from Gorak Shep to Kathmandu, finding the energy to go back on foot is challenging. I probably could’ve mustered up the energy to press on to Pengbouche, but I decided to just stay the night here instead. My flight from Lukla to Kathmandu is on the 18th, and I’m sure I can slow-roll my way back there in a week.

This Khumbu cough is getting worse. Good news, the fact that is getting worse as I descend means it’s definitely not life threatening high altitude pulmonary edema. Bad new is IM HEADING DOWN GODDAMMIT, I WANT TO BREATHE!

The Himalayan Rescue Association gives classes on altitude related illnesses. Since I figure this wont be the last time I venture into the heavens I decided to see that. Was worth going, even if it was just to pass the time.

Still early now, but I’m gonna head off to bed. Leave with this: